1. Ball and burlap and containerized trees - Remove wrapping material

• Cut and remove the top two tiers of wire after the tree is set in the hole.

• In addition, cut away all burlap and twine or grow bag fabric (even if biodegradable) from at least the upper 1/3 of the ball, as long as the ball is in tact.

• Never leave remaining burlap to stick above the ground.  It will wick away moisture from the soil and roots.

• Remove paper and plastic trunk wraps.  This is used to protect trees during shipping and will only cause harm if to remain.

• Trees in containers should be gently removed before planting.  If possible, cut or work them out.  Do not pull them out by the trunk.

• Straighten small circling roots and remove kinked and circling woody roots by cutting them with a sharp pruning tool.

• The soil/root mass in containerized trees should be cut lengthwise about every 4 inches to eliminate girdling roots.

2. Position the tree

If possible, plant the tree so that the north side as it grew in the nursery faces north when it is transplanted.  Sometimes the north side is marked with a spot of paint.  If you cannot find it, have the side with the most foliage face into the wind.  Have someone step back from the tree at two positions 90 degrees from each other to make sure the tree is upright.  Check the height of the root collar by laying the handle of a shovel across the top of the hole.  If the tree is too deep lift the tree by the root ball - not the trunk - and add some soil underneath.

3. Filling the hole

Put the dirt that came out of the hole back on top of the roots.  Make sure you do not cover the root collar with soil unless the roots are exposed.

4. Compact soil

Moderately tamp the soil with your foot after every few shovels.  This helps prevent air pockets and places the tree firmly in the hole.

5. Mulching

Apply 2 - 3 inches of mulch around the tree.  Keep mulch 3 - 5 inches away from the base of the trunk.  Mulch out to the drip line of the tree and form ridge on the outer edge that will catch and hold water.

6. Staking

Staking is optional.  Swaying caused by the wind actually stimulates root development.  Research indicates that unstaked trees grow into stronger more flexible trees than staked trees.  Staking does have its uses.  In fact, in Central New York we recommend that you leave trees staked for one year provided someone will be there to remove them.  Staking will protect trees from high wind events, vandalism and vehicles or bikes.  Use the following staking guidelines:

• If the main stem droops, use your hand to locate the point on the stem whereby it can stand on its own.  Place support ties 6 inches above that point.

• Use two stakes approximately 2" x 3" by 8' in length and drive them about 12 to 18 inches into the soil at the pits bottom.  Do not drive them into the root ball of the tree.

• Secure the trunk loosely to the stakes using non-abrasive material such as nylon webbing, or better yet, old garden hose.  Run string through the cut pieces of hose or tubular nylon webbing.